Fire, oak, lamb

An ocakbaşı built around one bed of oak embers - skewers charred to order in Gaziantep.

The ocak

The pit is the kitchen

Ocak & Ember is built around a central charcoal pit in Gaziantep. Oak burns down before noon; from then on the fire is never fed, only fanned.

The cook works a straw fan and a row of skewers, and lamb chars to order a breath of smoke at a time. Anatolian fire, grilled over oak.

Heat

Fan the pit. The glow, the embers and the skewer all follow.

The pit suggests

Lamb Shish

Cubed leg wants a steady working heat.

Közde: 3 skewers over the embers. The pit suggests Lamb Shish.

The spice route

Six jars stand by the pit. Tap a spice and it falls into the mortar.

Tap to add - tap again to take it out.

The mortar is empty.

Your mortar · 0/6

The grill

Char

Rest

Simmer

Memleket

Reserve

Eight stools ring the pit - counter seats go first. Parties above six, please call.

Went twice in one week, once for work and once because I wanted to. Whoever is making the Lahmacun back there deserves a compliment I could not deliver in person. Parking anywhere near it is a nightmare, which is hardly their fault.
Thomas E.last week
Rain, no umbrella, and the first door we tried. Lucky. The Künefe was better than the version I ate in the country it comes from. No fuss, no theatre, just a very good dinner.
Martina K.2 weeks ago
Booked on a recommendation from someone whose taste I trust completely. Three of us ordered the Adana Kebab after watching it go past to another table. I have lived in Gaziantep for eleven years and this is a new favourite.
Jonas B.3 weeks ago